We began the day, after my luscious 3 mile beach walk, with a trip into town for the trolley tour of the north side of the island. We drove through old homes, heard their history, change of ownership, founders. David Yulle is an important figure in the town’s history, only his name wasn’t Yulle, it was Levy. He changed the name so that he would fit in better with his Southern neighbors. (We’ve been surprised at the Jewish history in the south and more understanding of the play we saw last year, The Whipping Boy, which told of Jewish black slaves adhering to Passover ritual--fabulous story.) Yulle (Levy) brought the railroad to Amelia Island to take advantage of the natural port and to transfer goods from north to south and back. The train spur continues to operate and is used heavily by the paper mill and the shrimping industry. At one time Cargo containers were made here, but the paper mill expanded into its factory and now makes cardboard boxes in the plant.
Great port, super shipping, lots of sailors means lots of shore leave, lots of ladies and bars, an entire Ladies Street remains as do the bordellos, lovely old Victorian homes, several are bed and breakfast inns. The shrimp industry began in Amelia island and thrived for decades until higher diesel fuel prices, more regulations, concern for the environment including the green sea turtle, significantly reduced the industry. One of the unintended consequences of the shrimping industry’s demise is another wonderful story, and folks we met on our island tour.
It seems that a family, four generations of Burbanks, made hand tied shrimping and fishing nets. When the industry slowed to a trickle the Burbank family nearly shut down, but a friend of the family went on to Georgia Tech to coach and ask the Burbanks to make a net suitable for practicing baseball. From that first order the Burbanks, although they do continue to make a highly sophisticated shrimping net which doesn’t trap the turtles or dolphins, now made about 80% of the hand tied nets world wide. You’ve probably seen one or more in a batting cage, a back stop, a soccer goalie, or elsewhere. And the factory remains non-computerized, the work is done by hand, one tie at a time. We got to visit the factory, which is nothing more in appearance than an over sized hangar. One of the workers told us that it takes about 4 years to become proficient at tying, uniformly, the various knots needed for different nets. There’s only 15 workers. The young man we spoke to loved his job, been there about 8 years. Stu and I love to learn about ‘how it’s made’ and this stop on the tour was a great treat. We’ll never look at a net again without remembering our trip to the Island.
Once off the trolley we went up the street for lunch at--Jack & Diane’s. Lisa treated us to another assortment of her small plates and I had my first Southern Grits of this trip. Only Lisa makes her grits without butter, lard, bacon fat, or milk. Instead you have a choice of a creamy flavorful sauce or a spicy Cajun concoction she blends. i chose both and was glad I did.
Off to the Episcopalian church across the street. Besides beautiful stained glass windows, a full set of pipes for the organ, the ceiling was built to resemble a ship’s hull, upside down of course. Beautiful wood beams curved to support the pitched roof. Rather unique, which is difficult to do considering there are more churches per acre than we’ve ever seen in our lives.
Back in the car for a trip to the coast and historic Fort Clinch. Begun in 1942 with the intention of using the fort to protect the valuable harbor on the northern end of the Island, at the mouth of the St. Mary’s River, the fort was never completed. It seems that someone told the northern leadership (I got this story from a docent at the fort who was dressed in 1864 Union uniform and remained in character during my entire visit.) that Northerners couldn’t withstand the Southern summer. So all work ceased in May each year, the New York Engineers regiment went north, and return each October. By the time the Civil War came, the fort was still under construction. The Union engineers quickly rounded up everything that could float, row boats, canoes, dugouts, etc, burned them all so the Confederates couldn’t surprise them with an attack from the water or marsh. Not to worry, the Confederates left the area without a fight. Once gone, the Confederate sympathizers, store owners, farmers, families, left as well. The Union soldiers went through Northern Florida, invited all the Union sympathizers to come to the island and step into the homes, shops, fields, the confederates had left behind. And they did.
Amelia Island has been home to the flags of 8 different entities throughout its history., more than any other territory in the US. Quite a history, and quite an important port.
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